Not burying the lede: the reason L’Heure Bleue is so fascinating is that it smells like dessert while also managing to be melancholy. The name means “the bluish hour,” which leads me to believe it was designed to be more moody than delicious. I’ve heard it described as a cousin of Apres l’Ondee.
Here’s the note list, from Fragrantica as usual.
Top Notes: anise, bergamot
Heart Notes: rose, carnation, tuberose, violet, and neroli
Base Notes: vanilla, tonka bean, iris and benzoin.
NOTE: I have the modern eau de parfum. People say it’s been reformulated. I wouldn’t know, because I haven’t smelled the parfum or the vintage. This version doesn’t smell natural, but it does smell good.
I notice a little of the anise in the beginning and the neroli, vanilla, tonka bean and benzoin towards the end. L’Heure Bleue is more deep and resinous than floral. The only flower that really stands out is the iris. It’s a delicate effect against the nougat-like base that only someone who’s paying attention would pick up on.
I like to think of L’Heure Bleue as a performer who’s nowhere near past her prime but is carrying a little more hard-earned wisdom than she lets on.
Perfumer: Jacques Guerlain
Price Range: Moderate
Recommended Occasion: a bit fancy
Release Year: 1912
My Rating: 9